13/10/2025
If you have ever noticed, most shoemakers always start drawing their shoe patterns on the outer side of the last, that side facing away from the body.
But why not the inner side? I got that question from an Apprentice.
Let me break it down in plain terms.
First, the outer side of the foot (lateral side) is flatter and more stable. The inner side (medial side) has that curved arch that makes taping a bit tricky.
So when you’re covering your last with masking tape, the lateral side sits better on the bench, making it easier to mark lines, draw patterns, and keep things neat.
Secondly, the outer side of the last gives you a clean surface to work on. It’s where you draw your vamp line, throat line, back height, and all the important design details.
Once you’re done, you simply transfer that same design to the inner side. That way, your pattern stays balanced and your shoe comes out symmetrical.
Another reason is that the lateral side is the part people actually see when you wear the shoe. So it makes sense to start your design there, that’s where the shoe shows its personality and beauty.
Lastly, it aligns better with foot anatomy. The bones on the outside of the foot are straighter and firmer, so the markings you make there are more accurate in representing how the shoe should sit on the foot.
In short, we draw on the lateral side first because it’s flatter, easier to tape, and gives a more accurate, balanced, and beautiful design.
Demi J foot wares
