Lycra Sewing Tips

24/01/2026

Hi followers, I haven’t posted on Lycra Sewing Tips for some time. I’ve left the site open as there are quite a few helpful hints here. I closed my business a couple of years ago due to illness. I am not well now, having a slow form of leukemia as well as Ménière's disease, which makes me very dizzy. Hope you get some use out of the tips ive posted
Happy sewing.

22/09/2017

Coverstitch-lining up the raw edge underneath while sewing on top is very tricky.

1. Always exert a very gentle tension on the fabric to stop it slipping around.

2. Prepare small sections at a time. So with pressure foot down, use this as an anchor for your fabric. Lift the underside of the fabric up from just in front of the foot, fold under the hem the desired amount, then sew that section. Just 10cm/4" at a time until you are more confident.
I don't pin, glue, etc. just fold under small sections as you sew. Keeping tension on the fabric, don't stretch, this will stop it sliding around.
If you need to, you can put pins every 10cm folding under the hem the desired amount. The pins should be right angles to the fabric - the head of the pin should be hanging out from the fabric and the point facing the body of the garment. Don't be tempted to pin your hem all the way around with pins running the direction of the hem - this will cause problems with creased hems. We need the fabric to find it best place to sit not force it where it doesn't want to go.

3. Set a guide for the edge/fold of your hem. This makes sure you sew an equal distance around the hem of your garment.

4. Don't be afraid to have a little of the raw edge showing initially till you get the hang of sewing on the raw edge. This can be carefully trimmed after. Don't double fold. It defeats the reason you are using the coverstitch in the first place and will give you a very wobbly stretched seam.

Sewing with a coverstitch is a little challenging initially because you are sewing blind. Take your time and do some practice.

5. Having a problem with the look of your stitching.

a. Tunnelling? Loosen the bottom thread as much as possible and test sew, increasing the tension as necessary to get the desired finish.

b. Skipping stitches? Change you needles to suit your fabric. Stretch needles for very tight stretchy fabric, etc.

c. No stretch in the stitching?
The stretchier the fabric the smaller the stitch length. If you are sewing cotton woven fabric then you can use a long stitch length. Do a test sew to find the optimal length for the fabric you are sewing.
No stretch can also be caused by the incorrect setting for the Differential Feed Dial. Read you manual. Coverstitch machines usually have 2 dials. 1 is for stitch length and 1 is for the stretch. Again, do a test sew to get to know your machine.

I have been coverstitching for many years. It was a challenge initially but now it is the easiest, simplistic method of putting up hems. Keep going. Practice makes perfect.

Trudy Addison Nicol

24/07/2017

Are you aware that your machine has a foot pressure adjustment? (Most machines including Overlocker have this but perhaps not all).

What is the advantage of different tensions/pressure - on your machine's foot? The pressure on your foot can make a huge difference to problems like fabric "growing" as you sew or slipping around everywhere. That's where the top layer of the fabric feeds at a different rate to the bottom layer. The pressure of your foot can make a huge difference.

What adjustment should you make if you have this problem of uneven feeding of your fabric layers? Actually I can't give you any guidance there because if the pressure is too light the feed dogs can pull the bottom layer of fabric through more quickly and if the pressure is too tight it will physically push the top layer out of alignment.

So what do you do? Get some scrap fabric (of a type you use most to sew with) and turn your tension on your foot down as low as it goes and see what happens. Do the same with it as firm as it goes. Now see if you can find a pressure that suits your fabric.

I adjust my pressure if I am sewing something out of the ordinary for me like chiffon. Or I'm sewing something really thick and bulky. Mostly it stays the same as I sew Lycra 99% of the time.

I'm just mentioning this as most people are unaware that they have a tension adjustment. I hope this little snippet of information helps someone out.

Happy sewing.

29/04/2017

Adding a zip to Lycra garments.

If you are adding a zipper make sure your seam allowance is a minimum of 1cm.
Pin one side of the zip at the neckline, lay it flat against your fabric then move the bottom of the zip down 2cm (for a long zip) then pin the bottom of the zip. Now stretch the fabric flat and pin the zip in the middle. Keep doing this between the pins till you are comfortable.
The rest of the seam should be sewn to at least 1 cm above the notch at the base of the zip if you are doing a Square base. If you don't know how to clip for this then I suggest you finish you bottom seam level with the base of the zip and just have a 'v' at the base.
Now pin the bottom of the other side of you zip in exactly the same level as it's mate and pin the top of the zip in place and repeat the stretch and pin sequence.
Once you have the zip in, very carefully top stitch around the outside edge (6mm?) pulling firmly away from the zip as you go. This will prevent the zip from catching when being pulled up or down.

09/04/2017

I've seen lots of discussions in groups on how best to store our taped up patterns. I have heaps that I have been folding but they drive me nuts when I want to trace another size. So I had this idea of PVC pipe with some sort of fl**ge on it so it can stand up.
This is what I found. 2 pieces that just sit together. The base is reasonably heavy so they stand really easy. Yes kids can pull it over but I don't think it would do anyone any serious harm. Purchased from Bunnings. Descriptions and price attached to pictures.
I'm happy. 😃

25/02/2017

https://www.facebook.com/Stretch2Sew/posts/1835659113423879

I posted this tip on the wrong page. Please click on the link.

20/02/2017

I want to apologise for the wrong ABOUT information on this page. I changed the name of this page and I haven't worked out how to remove the TruDysign Sportswear information.

Stretch2Sew

[email protected]

I make custom TEAM ACTIONWEAR as well as retail Lycra garment (coming soon to www.stretch2sew.com.au)

www.stretch2sew.com.au

20/02/2017

How do you cut out from a multi size pattern? Do you use different products if you are going to use the pattern a lot?

I never destroy a multi-size pattern by just cutting out my size. The same goes for PDF home printed patterns. I might want to use it for another body shape or I may change shape myself 😄
Tracing is the way to go. Then roll or fold your master for later use. Some people use baking paper, some use grease proof paper some use store bought tracing paper, some use Violene.

I trace, resize and alter patterns every day in my business. I have 3 mediums that I use for these processes.
1. Grease proof paper is tough and see through. Because I use this on a regular basis, I buy an OUTER from a paper goods supply store (where the shops buy their takeaway containers, etc). It is a big sheet so I don't have to use up all of my sticky tape to tape the sheets together and I can easily draw and erase/alter patterns.
Once I have my pattern traced, I then make a decision whether this is a one off pattern, or if it will be used some times or whether it will be used regularly.
One off pattern - Grease proof paper.
2. If this is going to be a sometimes pattern I would then cut out of a stronger medium such as brown paper or Violene (the stuff that is used to stiffen collars etc. generally white but you can get it in black from your fabric stores)
3. If the pattern I have traced is going to be used regularly I could use Violine (which is tricky to trace around onto my fabric) but I use PATTERN CARDBOARD. This comes in a roll. It is relatively expensive to purchase for general use but if you have a business it a time saver and lasts for years.

I always trace my pattern onto my fabric. Lycra patterns only have a very small difference between each size as opposed to woven fabric patterns.
By tracing your pattern onto your fabric you have a distinct accurate line, there is no chance of accidentally cutting your pattern and it is easier to set up several LAYS when cutting out several items of the same size.
The below picture is a lay of 6. See how I save fabric by placing my pattern pieces economically onto the fabric.
Don't destroy your multisize patterns. TRACE.

31/01/2017

What thread should I use?

I've been sewing semi-professionally for over 30 years, so loads of trial and error. Your regular sewing thread is perfect for your Overlocker. Using Gutterman or similar quality thread in the loopers is a bit of a bit of a waste as this is just overlocking the raw edge and any cheap thread will do. I would use good quality thread in the needle threads as these need to be strong so you don't get broken seams. Some people use wooly nylon in all threads but I find using such a weak thread in the needle is a waste of your time. Wooly can be a softer finish in the looper threads if you need that but a standard poly thread is just fine.

22/10/2016

To pre wash knits or not to pre wash?

Ask yourself some questions first.
1. Does this fabric have a loose weave? (knits are not woven)
2. Does it have a high natural fibre content and is a woven fabric which may shrink? (knits are not woven)
3. Is it a woven or knit fabric that has a high cotton content but no Spandex/Lycra content?

I generally don't pre wash anything. Why? Because I mainly work with High quality Lycra's. (Like Boo Designs sells)
Lycra starts to deteriorate as soon as you wash it for the first time. So if you wash your piece of fabric and only use a small portion and then put the rest away for another day you may find when the old fabric is made up that it deteriorates very quickly when worn.

The main reason for pre washing woven fabrics was to:
1. Wash out the fabric stiffeners.
2. To re-aline the warp and weft threads as they quit often became distorted in the weaving, stiffening and rolling process.
3. To preshrink natural fibres - because there is no room for error with woven fabrics.
4. To remove excess dye.

The main reason for pre washing knit fabric (with NO Lycra/Spandex content)

1. Wash out the fabric stiffeners.
2. To preshrink natural fibres
3. To remove excess dye.
4. To remove distortion from the fabric due to incorrect storing.
(Knit can be distorted by the washing process too so only wash as much as you may need for your project and be very careful if you are hanging to dry - as opposed to using a dryer)
IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO WASH KNITS. Your preference only.

The main reason for pre washing Lycra or Spandex fabric?

1. If you are mixing colours (colour blocking a garment) you may choose to pre wash.
2. Pre shrink??? (Not necessary - Lycra stretches, cotton Lycra might be a bit firm after the first wash but stretches out to shape once on).
3. Remove stiffeners??? (Does not really apply)
4. To remove distortion??? Not recommended. You could distort further. Just lay flat on a table and give a light mist with water to relieve the stressed area and allow to dry before cutting.

There is no right or wrong methods for sewing or caring for your fabric. Use a little common sense and do what works best for you.

Happy sewing.