30/10/2025
Helmut Lang Jeans autumn/winter 1999
‘Flak’ jacket with modular liner and carrying straps in vintage water-resistant cotton
Produced in Italy by GTR Group S.p.A.
A/W 1999 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons. One of the finest examples of Lang’s affinity for vintage militaria, this jacket is based on the United States Army's ‘M69’ flak vest issued during the Vietnam war. While the sleeveless original featured protective metal plates, Lang's version is crafted from aged cotton that has been filled with goose down, creating a simple and sculptural silhouette. Functional details on the torso have also been maintained but rendered in an asymmetric arrangement. A removable padded liner vest adds extra insulation, while the designer’s signature straps on the interior can be used to carry the piece like a backpack.
Part of our permanent collection (END-HELM-1981)
Pictures: on the runway, backstage photo by