30/12/2025
Why does it take 40+ hours to make one of these hand-built blazers? - Part 2.
Following the previous post, it’s time to reveal the hand-sewn steps hidden inside this jacket.
They may be invisible from the outside, but they are essential to its structure, durability and most importantly, its soul.
Pictures 1 / 2 / 3
Hand pad-stitching the lapel and collar.
This process attaches the canvas and gradually shapes it by hand. It’s slow, technical work, but it’s what truly separates a handmade jacket from a factory-made one. Most industrial jackets rely on cheap fusible interlinings, which eventually separate from the outer fabric (sometimes after just a bit of rain…).
Here, the canvas is built to remain soft and unstructured, naturally following the body of the wearer.
Pictures 4 / 5
Hand-sewn vent lining and invisible sleeve / body hem stitching.
These are both design and structural choices. Sewing the vent by hand allows stress to be absorbed by the stitches rather than weakening the fabric itself. The invisible hem stitch replaces fusible tape - a shortcut still used in many high-priced jackets…
Pictures 6 / 7
Hand-sewn buttonholes and hand-sewn label, using silk thread.
Hand-sewn buttonholes are rarely found in ready-to-wear due to the time and skill required. They belong to the world of bespoke tailoring. More than function, they are a statement about craftsmanship, intention, and how garments should be made.
In my opinion, designer clothes should make quality and attention to detail a priority, and these extra steps are my way of expressing that belief.