Adventures in Mantuamaking

Adventures in Mantuamaking 18th Century Dressmaker with her journeywoman papers in the trades of Millinery & Mantuamaking.

Maker of historically accurate 18th Century women's clothing, online teacher & lead instructor

Do you have a "pair of sleeves" to wear with your shifts? What about a "pair of ruffles" to finish off the look of your ...
03/09/2026

Do you have a "pair of sleeves" to wear with your shifts? What about a "pair of ruffles" to finish off the look of your gown?

In the 18th century in England and America it seems that a “pair of sleeves” or “a pair of shift sleeves” was a separate item that is could be added to a simpler shift. �This is great for laundry purposes but also for pairing fine quality shift sleeves with more affordable shifts!

So not all those beautiful gathered shift sleeves that you see below the end of the gown sleeve in portraits have to be part of the shift! Also these are a distinctly different accessory from the gathered white “pair of ruffles” that can be attached to the gown sleeve. Both of these items show up regularly in lists of stolen clothing items in 18th century newspapers.

References:
-The Newcastle Chronicle, or, General Weekly Advertiser, Newcastle upon Tyne, Tyne and Wear, England · Saturday, January 04, 1772
-Extant detachable shift sleeves Acc # 021-47,1&2 from Colonial Williamsburg Collection
-The Newcastle Weekly Courant, Newcastle upon Tyne, Tyne and Wear, England · Saturday, July 05, 1783

-The Public Advertiser, London, Greater London, England · Thursday, February 21, 1760
Extant Sleeve Ruffles Acc # 1985-128,1 from Colonial Williamsburg Collection
-The Public Advertiser London, Greater London, England · Tuesday, December 08, 1778

-The Pennsylvania Gazette, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania · Thursday, March 26, 1767
-The Independent Gazetteer or The Chronicle of Freedom, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania · Saturday, September 28, 1782

Check out the workshops we will be offering at Burnley & Trowbridge Company next spring! I'll be teaching two of my favo...
02/09/2026

Check out the workshops we will be offering at Burnley & Trowbridge Company next spring! I'll be teaching two of my favorite workshop next year (and maybe a Sack class or two 😉 as well). But there are so many other great classes we are offering too! What do you want to attend?

We are excited to announce our In-Person Workshops for the Winter, Spring, & Summer seasons of 2027 here in Williamsburg, Virginia. From introductory classes to masterclasses, we have something for everyone and every skill level, including the stays class so many of you have been waiting for!

Check out our website now for registration dates with more information for each workshop coming soon.

I'm excited to be back at The New York Historical this Saturday, August 29th from 12-4 pm for the program "Living Histor...
28/08/2026

I'm excited to be back at The New York Historical this Saturday, August 29th from 12-4 pm for the program "Living History: 18th Century Historical Trades—Mantua-Makers".

Come learn about how mantua makers (dressmakers) created gowns and jackets for New Yorkers. I'll be working on finishing a new worsted wool gown during the afternoon. We'll also have on display the finished short gown we made for during the last dressmaking program!

Whether you can join me or not make sure you check out the museum's exhibit on "Revolutionary Women" before it closes on October 25th, 2026!

📷's by and who also assisted greatly in stitching the wool short gown back in March of 2026! All my outfit is from Burnley & Trowbridge Company fabric as is the wool short gown.

Please read this extremely important post by Dr Serena Dyer, Fashion Historian. Please think about these things before y...
24/08/2026

Please read this extremely important post by Dr Serena Dyer, Fashion Historian. Please think about these things before you post, consume, share!

"This political cartoon illustrates the divide within Great Britain over the “American question” as it was often called ...
01/05/2026

"This political cartoon illustrates the divide within Great Britain over the “American question” as it was often called in the period. Did the colonies deserve equal representation, civil rights, and treatment as British citizens, as many of the Whig politicians depicted here believed? Or was the rebellion the unnatural selfishness of a petulant child against its parent, as the author of this political cartoon clearly believed? It was a question that would plague Great Britain and her American colonies for the next seven years."

, May 1, 1776, “The Westminster Magazine” published this political cartoon in London. Titled “The Parricide, A Sketch of Modern Patriotism,” the cartoon depicts an enraged America (depicted by a woman in Native headdress with dagger and hatchet) attacking the prone Britannia, stepping on Britannia’s fallen shield and broken spear.

To America’s left is a person of color, brandishing a pair of torches and with snakes for hair. To her right is John Wilkes, English politician and pro-Patriot radical, pointing the way. Britannia is restrained on the left by the Duke of Grafton, a Whig politician and former Prime Minister who favored a conciliatory approach to the American colonies. Holding Britannia’s other arm is likely George Haley, another Whig politician and Wilkes’ brother-in-law. In the background, a man with the head of a fox is a stand-in for Charles James Fox, another pro-Patriot Whig politician. The man on crutches at the far right is likely William Pitt “The Elder” former Prime Minister who was sympathetic to the Patriot cause and who had in 1768 resigned for health reasons. Another sympathetic Whig politician, Charles Pratt, known as Judge Camden, holds the reins to bit in the mouth of a lion. The lion typically depicts England, especially the English crown. Is Camden directing the lion to attack Britannia? Or is he restraining the lion from attacking America?

Although it depicts many British politicians sympathetic to the American cause, the cartoon is a sharp critique of their actions. “Parricide” means the killing of a parent – in this instance, America and her British political allies are killing Britannia, America’s parent. The snake-locked person at left is likely an early example of the use of Medusa as an illustration of the monstrousness of revolution, reinforced by the fiery torches held overhead. Snakes were also often used to depict America in this period, which may be another reason for their inclusion. In the foreground, a large medallion depicts “the pelican in her piety,” a reference to the self-sacrifice of a pelican wounding herself to feed her young, often an analogy for the sacrifice of Jesus Christ, but here clearly meant to depict the sacrifice of Britain to care for her colonies.

This political cartoon illustrates the divide within Great Britain over the “American question” as it was often called in the period. Did the colonies deserve equal representation, civil rights, and treatment as British citizens, as many of the Whig politicians depicted here believed? Or was the rebellion the unnatural selfishness of a petulant child against its parent, as the author of this political cartoon clearly believed? It was a question that would plague Great Britain and her American colonies for the next seven years.

Image: “The Parricide, A Sketch of Modern Patriotism” political cartoon published May 1, 1776, in “The Westminster Magazine,” London. Library of Congress.

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