Assembil

Assembil Simple fashion resources. See our books for sewing and pattern making on www.assembil.com

23/08/2026

Pattern Basics: Don’t get stuck on blocks

When you first learn about blocks, it may seem like there is only one method for each block type: bodice, skirt, trousers, etc.

You make the core blocks to the measurements you want, check the fitting, and then start designing from them. One step after another, right?

But then with more knowledge can come more confusion:

- There are lots of block methods, so which one to choose?
- What body measurements to choose?
- Have you compared body measurements to similar brands?
- Do you agree or disagree with their measurements?

If you are sewing for yourself at home, you can simply choose your own measurements, but maybe you still get confused about which block methods to follow.

It may be even more confusing if you are about to start your own label and are a designer / pattern maker / founder / sewing pattern brand.

My advice would be to do a little research, make your best guess at your measurements across your size range, pick a block method from a pattern making book that is well regarded... and then just start drafting up blocks. Start turning them into test toiles and start designing with them. Blocks can be an easy excuse to procrastinate over, but you have to try to get past that stage and get on with it.

Blocks make much more sense once you start seeing them in 3D, toiled up in calico, or finally designed into a garment. Don’t let blocks get you too stuck!

This is Part 6 of a short video series about pattern blocks. The full video with all chapters is also on Youtube .

The block draft shown is the Bunka adult sloper for womenswear from the book “Fundamentals of Garment Design” by Bunka Fashion College.

09/08/2026

Pattern Basics: Can you mix and match blocks?

This is a simple idea, with potentially far-reaching consequences for how you want to build out a pattern block library.

You might want to make your blocks as modular as possible so that you can mix and match blocks to create different designs. For example, maybe you want a fitted sleeve that fits into a shirt dress and a shirt? Maybe your brand has key details that have their own blocks, like a signature pocket?

This is Part 5 of a short video series about pattern blocks. The full video with all chapters is also on Youtube .

The block draft shown is the Bunka adult sloper for womenswear from the book “Fundamentals of Garment Design” by Bunka Fashion College.

11/07/2026

Pattern Basics: How to make blocks a useful tool?

At the beginning, you are drafting out pattern blocks and get caught in lots of questions. Do you need seam allowance or not? Are you meant to include wearing ease? What hem height should they be? You get caught up in what is right and wrong instead of what works for you.

Blocks are a tool, so make them useful for you. Ultimately, you want to create a block that is like a pattern making shortcut.

This is Part 4 of a short video series about pattern blocks. The full video with all chapters is also on Youtube .

PLEASE NOTE: The Assembil book “How Patterns Work” does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:
- “Fundamentals of Garment Design” by Bunka Fashion College

18/06/2026

Secure Thread with a Knot | Exercise 4.03 from How To Start Sewing

There are a few ways that you can anchor your thread for hand sewing. One method is to use small thread knots at the beginning and end of your stitching lines, as shown in this video. The method shown is from the Assembil book “How To Start Sewing”. The method shows how to quickly create a knot at the end of your thread tail by wrapping the thread around the needle, and also how to tie off the thread at the end of the stitching line.

Book: “How To Start Sewing” by Assembil
Exercise 4.03: Running Stitch (with Thread Knots)

04/06/2026

Running Stitch | Exercise 4.03 from How To Start Sewing

A Running Stitch, also called a Straight Stitch, is one of the most basic hand sewing stitches you can sew. The method shown in this video is for hand sewing a running stitch from the Assembil book How To Start Sewing.

The simplicity of the running stitch makes it incredibly versatile. Perfect for creating a hand-sewn look on garments and homewares, it can serve as the basis for complex sashiko designs or look great when attaching patches to denim garments for repairs. It can be sewn large and loose or small and tight, depending on the size of your stitches.

06/05/2026

Pattern Basics: There are so many different blocks?

This is Part 3 of a short video series about pattern blocks.

There are lots of blocks.

This may seem obvious once you get into it a bit further, but you start off learning the bodice block, skirt block and trouser block for womenswear, then maybe you need a matching sleeve, or a full dress block, then before you know it, if you branch out into menswear or kidswear, then they are going to have their own blocks too. Larger size ranges may need a fresh block approach. Stretch versus woven fabrics probably need different blocks too. Do they need to be model size for catwalk pieces only? Or a good starting size to grade for a direct-to-consumer label?

If you are new to using blocks, a previous video, “What confuses you about blocks?” will introduce you to some block basics.

In follow-up videos, I will discuss more things to know about working with blocks, as they form a solid foundation if you are working predominantly in a flat patternmaking method.

PLEASE NOTE: “How Patterns Work” does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:

- “How Patterns Work” by Assembil
- “Pattern Cutting” by Dennic Chunman Lo
- “Fundamentals of Garment Design”, “Skirts and Pants” and “Blouses and Dresses” by Bunka Fashion College
- “Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear” by Winifred Aldrich
- “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

18/04/2026

Pattern Basics: More than one way to draft a block?

This is Part 2 of a short video series about pattern blocks.

When you first start using blocks in patternmaking classes, it can feel as though you are thrown into the deep end. “This is the bodice block”, they may say, as though this is the one and only way to translate body measurements into a bodice block. Maybe this is explained at the time, and goes over your head as you try to grapple with the angle from CF to the shoulder, but it can be easy to think you follow one method, and that is your only option. As though this is the singular flawless mathematical solution.

The truth is, there are different block methods, and they vary in the way that they translate body measurements into a block. For example, if you made a bodice block from Helen Joseph-Armstrong’s “Patternmaking for Fashion Design”, a bodice block from Winifred Aldrich’s book “Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear”, or followed the draft from “Fundamentals of Garment Design” from Bunka Fashion College, then they will all result in slightly different shapes even when drafted from the same body measurements.

This difference between blocks is about more than just different dart positions. The formulas, angles and amounts of ease differ from method to method and is something I could explore in a later video.

If you are new to using blocks, a previous video, “What confuses you about blocks?” will introduce you to some block basics.

In follow-up videos, I will discuss more things to know about working with blocks, as they form a solid foundation if you are working predominantly in a flat patternmaking method.

PLEASE NOTE: “How Patterns Work” does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:
- “How Patterns Work” by Assembil
- “Fundamentals of Garment Design” by Bunka Fashion College
- “Metic Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear” by Winifred Aldrich
- “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

05/04/2026

Pattern Basics: What Confuses You About Blocks?

I think we should have a little chat about blocks because sometimes you throw yourself into using them, and trying to make sense of them, and trying to draft them, without understanding how they work in the bigger picture of pattern making. Blocks are covered in the Assembil book *How Patterns Work*, but it can help to have someone talk you through the basics, and also some block misconceptions.

First, let’s talk about some block basics.

A block is essentially the 3D measurements of the body, mapped and marked out in a 2D form, in the simplest possible way. There are blocks for different parts of the body. Such as a bodice block, a trouser block, or a skirt block. Think of these as the simplest way to cover the body in paper. As though it is a paper garment with the fewest darts, simplest seam lines, simplest neckline, simplest hem.

Blocks are core templates that pattern makers use to make patterns. A block is not designed; it is a tool. A 2D mapping of the body without seam allowance or any design details. In contrast, a pattern builds on this block shape by adding design lines, volume, details, and seam allowance.

There are a number of misconceptions about blocks, or things that take a while to click about how flexible they can be.

In follow up videos I will discuss more things to know about working with blocks, as they form a solid foundation if you are working predominantly in a flat pattern making method.

PLEASE NOTE: *How Patterns Work* does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:

- *How Patterns Work* by Assembil
- *Fundamentals of Garment Design* by Bunka Fashion College
- *Metic Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear* by Winifred Aldrich
- *Patternmaking for Fashion Design* by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

28/02/2026

No matter how complex pattern changes look, you basically have 3 options: increase volume, decrease volume, or move volume around without changing fit value.

Understanding volume in these terms is the key to unlocking pattern making and is at the heart of our Assembil book How Patterns Work. If you are one of the many people who have purchased How Patterns Work recently, then welcome, feel free to ask any questions at all.

How Patterns Work at first glance can seem like a very simple pattern making book. This is intentional. Think of it as the prequel to more complex pattern drafting books.

If you have attempted pattern making before and felt yourself blindly following pattern recipes, block drafting methods and complex fitting changes with no idea what you are doing, then this is the book for you.

Even for the most experienced pattern makers, going back to basics and streamlining your thinking can help you in your most ambitious pattern moments. Sometimes you need to take a breath and ask yourself, what am I trying to do here? What volume change do I want to make, and where do I need it to land on the body?

When you start thinking in volume instead of measurements, pattern making stops feeling like noise, and you find it easier to visualise the 2D to 3D change you are trying to make.

More volume on the pattern = more fabric on the body.

Books from the video:
- How Patterns Work by Assembil
- Pattern Magic 2 by Tomoko Nakamichi
- Fundamentals of Garment Design by Bunka Fashion College
- Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

On the machine today, new patch jackets for the kids.
08/02/2026

On the machine today, new patch jackets for the kids.

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