Assembil

Assembil Simple fashion resources. See our books for sewing and pattern making on www.assembil.com

06/05/2026

Pattern Basics: There are so many different blocks?

This is Part 3 of a short video series about pattern blocks.

There are lots of blocks.

This may seem obvious once you get into it a bit further, but you start off learning the bodice block, skirt block and trouser block for womenswear, then maybe you need a matching sleeve, or a full dress block, then before you know it, if you branch out into menswear or kidswear, then they are going to have their own blocks too. Larger size ranges may need a fresh block approach. Stretch versus woven fabrics probably need different blocks too. Do they need to be model size for catwalk pieces only? Or a good starting size to grade for a direct-to-consumer label?

If you are new to using blocks, a previous video, “What confuses you about blocks?” will introduce you to some block basics.

In follow-up videos, I will discuss more things to know about working with blocks, as they form a solid foundation if you are working predominantly in a flat patternmaking method.

PLEASE NOTE: “How Patterns Work” does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:

- “How Patterns Work” by Assembil
- “Pattern Cutting” by Dennic Chunman Lo
- “Fundamentals of Garment Design”, “Skirts and Pants” and “Blouses and Dresses” by Bunka Fashion College
- “Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear” by Winifred Aldrich
- “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

18/04/2026

Pattern Basics: More than one way to draft a block?

This is Part 2 of a short video series about pattern blocks.

When you first start using blocks in patternmaking classes, it can feel as though you are thrown into the deep end. “This is the bodice block”, they may say, as though this is the one and only way to translate body measurements into a bodice block. Maybe this is explained at the time, and goes over your head as you try to grapple with the angle from CF to the shoulder, but it can be easy to think you follow one method, and that is your only option. As though this is the singular flawless mathematical solution.

The truth is, there are different block methods, and they vary in the way that they translate body measurements into a block. For example, if you made a bodice block from Helen Joseph-Armstrong’s “Patternmaking for Fashion Design”, a bodice block from Winifred Aldrich’s book “Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear”, or followed the draft from “Fundamentals of Garment Design” from Bunka Fashion College, then they will all result in slightly different shapes even when drafted from the same body measurements.

This difference between blocks is about more than just different dart positions. The formulas, angles and amounts of ease differ from method to method and is something I could explore in a later video.

If you are new to using blocks, a previous video, “What confuses you about blocks?” will introduce you to some block basics.

In follow-up videos, I will discuss more things to know about working with blocks, as they form a solid foundation if you are working predominantly in a flat patternmaking method.

PLEASE NOTE: “How Patterns Work” does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:
- “How Patterns Work” by Assembil
- “Fundamentals of Garment Design” by Bunka Fashion College
- “Metic Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear” by Winifred Aldrich
- “Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

05/04/2026

Pattern Basics: What Confuses You About Blocks?

I think we should have a little chat about blocks because sometimes you throw yourself into using them, and trying to make sense of them, and trying to draft them, without understanding how they work in the bigger picture of pattern making. Blocks are covered in the Assembil book *How Patterns Work*, but it can help to have someone talk you through the basics, and also some block misconceptions.

First, let’s talk about some block basics.

A block is essentially the 3D measurements of the body, mapped and marked out in a 2D form, in the simplest possible way. There are blocks for different parts of the body. Such as a bodice block, a trouser block, or a skirt block. Think of these as the simplest way to cover the body in paper. As though it is a paper garment with the fewest darts, simplest seam lines, simplest neckline, simplest hem.

Blocks are core templates that pattern makers use to make patterns. A block is not designed; it is a tool. A 2D mapping of the body without seam allowance or any design details. In contrast, a pattern builds on this block shape by adding design lines, volume, details, and seam allowance.

There are a number of misconceptions about blocks, or things that take a while to click about how flexible they can be.

In follow up videos I will discuss more things to know about working with blocks, as they form a solid foundation if you are working predominantly in a flat pattern making method.

PLEASE NOTE: *How Patterns Work* does not cover block drafting. That is why this video series allows me to introduce you to books that do include block drafting methods.

Books from the video:

- *How Patterns Work* by Assembil
- *Fundamentals of Garment Design* by Bunka Fashion College
- *Metic Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear* by Winifred Aldrich
- *Patternmaking for Fashion Design* by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

28/02/2026

No matter how complex pattern changes look, you basically have 3 options: increase volume, decrease volume, or move volume around without changing fit value.

Understanding volume in these terms is the key to unlocking pattern making and is at the heart of our Assembil book How Patterns Work. If you are one of the many people who have purchased How Patterns Work recently, then welcome, feel free to ask any questions at all.

How Patterns Work at first glance can seem like a very simple pattern making book. This is intentional. Think of it as the prequel to more complex pattern drafting books.

If you have attempted pattern making before and felt yourself blindly following pattern recipes, block drafting methods and complex fitting changes with no idea what you are doing, then this is the book for you.

Even for the most experienced pattern makers, going back to basics and streamlining your thinking can help you in your most ambitious pattern moments. Sometimes you need to take a breath and ask yourself, what am I trying to do here? What volume change do I want to make, and where do I need it to land on the body?

When you start thinking in volume instead of measurements, pattern making stops feeling like noise, and you find it easier to visualise the 2D to 3D change you are trying to make.

More volume on the pattern = more fabric on the body.

Books from the video:
- How Patterns Work by Assembil
- Pattern Magic 2 by Tomoko Nakamichi
- Fundamentals of Garment Design by Bunka Fashion College
- Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

On the machine today, new patch jackets for the kids.
08/02/2026

On the machine today, new patch jackets for the kids.

27/01/2026

We’re often told to prewash our fabric before cutting out and sewing to remove excess dye and ensure the colour from our finished garments won’t run in the wash. But how do you know if all the excess dye has been removed and the fabric is safe to use?

I use Dylon Colour Catchers in the wash, which are like small sheets of paper. I’ll add a link at the bottom of the description.

You just put one in the washing machine drum before you wash your fabric. For prewashing fabric, I use the same wash cycle and temperature I would use to wash the finished garment. After the wash, you can tell which fabrics bleed a lot of excess dye because the colour catcher sheet will look stained. If the fabric is colourfast, the sheet will come out white.

You can repeat the prewashing process, particularly with strong colours, if you feel more dye is still coming off the fabric.

However, I was going to use a contrast red fabric sewn onto a cream background recently, and after seeing the amount of stain on the dye sheet after prewashing (twice), I decided to substitute the contrast colour altogether. I switched from a red to an olive green instead. It just didn’t feel worth the risk.

This is not an ad for Dylon. I just find these sheets really useful. These sheets are also great in the wash with new clothes, particularly washing new denim or strong colours, or clothes with a mix of colours.

Other brands are available and probably work just as well, but I use Dylon Colour Catchers. They are available on Amazon: https://amzn.to/4afhEKu (note this is an affiliate link ) and also available from supermarkets here in the UK.

19/01/2026

New video up on YouTube “New Year, New Algorithm” a time to reset what you see on social, a chance to focus on following great people.

Here are just a handful of the many accounts I am enjoying at the moment in no particular order:kenstudio
allan




I’ll probably keep adding to this list as I am sure there are so many more. And so many tailors, home sewers, aspiring fashion designers. There are so many people making incredibly intricate things from tiny studios and bedrooms right now.

Please add your own in the comments.

17/01/2026

Can we reset our feeds this year for better content and more making?

Did you know you can reset your social media algorithms? This seems like a great way to start the new year. A chance to clear out some of our old social media habits, unfollow unwanted accounts, and block out advertisers we don’t need to see.

It is easy to see our own feeds and forget we are in a bubble. The algorithm picks up on what we like, but also has a habit of sending us more and more content that... even if we don’t really like it, we can’t help but pause to watch or click on it.

Maybe 2026 is a great year to choose more accounts to follow from the makers, the educators, the people who make us laugh, and the ones who keep us informed. Vote with your likes and unfollows. Beware of the accounts masquerading as nice and fun, but using fear-based headlines and gimmicks to get your clicks. Selling you solutions to problems you didn’t know you had. Is it helpful content, or is it accidentally making you anxious?

Or even better, put your phone away altogether and do more making. More physical things with your hands like cooking, sewing, building lego, putting up new shelves. Physical things where you slowly see progress and don’t reset to zero the second you click the off switch.

On Instagram:
Menu Bars - Settings and Activity - Suggested Content - Reset Suggested Content

On Tiktok:
Menu Bars - Settings and Privacy - Content Preferences - Refresh Your For You Feed

Another day, another Christmas present project
19/12/2025

Another day, another Christmas present project

Working away on Arbor Jacket / assorted Christmas present projects.
16/12/2025

Working away on Arbor Jacket / assorted Christmas present projects.

18/11/2025

The biggest surprise for me from the Knit+Stitch Show was the textile galleries and the range of exhibited artists and graduate work. I was expecting to see a range of stalls for craft, sewing, and knitting, but I didn’t think of the show as a place a fashion student could go for inspiration from other textile artists, or as a place a designer from a large fashion house could go to discover a hidden gem for future collaborations.

The Knit+Stitch Show, recently held in London, features an incredible collection of stalls filled with beautiful fabrics, new machines, and a wide range of kits and materials for crafting, crochet, sewing, and knitting. The Knit+Stitch Show typically runs in October at Alexandra Palace. Dates for next year are 8-11 October 2026.

Address

London

Website

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Assembil posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact The Business

Send a message to Assembil:

Shortcuts

Share

Category