True (Kiltmakers)

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True (Kiltmakers)

Hand Tailored, Bespoke Kilts made in Rosemarkie.

14/10/2023

For years I did the final pressing of the kilt with just an iron. And I have an excellent iron that does the job.
However I get immense pleasure from the razor sharp pleats that my press creates. So I only use my press for the pleats.
It's necessary however, to use the iron for the rest of the kilt, because there is more shaping to do, through ironwork. It's a joy to achieve the beautiful final shaping in the kilt.
And that's the kilt off to my customer.

13/10/2023

We're on the home straight now.
The final bit of sewing, is to install a cotton silesia lining, for comfort.
Starting with the back I sew the lining below the bottom edge of the canvas. I then sew the two pieces to the bottom edge of the apron canvases. The apron linings are turned up, and pinned in place first. Then the back piece is turned up, shaped with darts and pinned in place.
I now sew all round the edges, sew the darts, and cut open the hole, and sew it.
Finally I sew in the label.
That's the kilt all ready for pressing.

12/10/2023

If you remember I cut out the bulk from the small of the back?
I now select pieces from the cutouts, to create carriers for the kilt buckles.
This kilt will have three buckles and straps. Two waist buckles, and one hip buckle.
I choose pieces that will match the tartan where the buckles will be positioned.
These carriers are sturdy and are hand sewn in position. It's now that I open the hole for the strap, and sew on the straps too.

11/10/2023

Can you spot the belt loops? The belt loops have to accomodate a kilt belt which is 2 1/2" deep. They are usually sewn on, about seven pleats in from either end, and match the tartan and direction of twills.
Once the loops are on, the waistband gets sewn to the outside of the kilt, 1/2" down from the top edge. The checks must match the checks on the front apron, and the twills must go in the same direction.
I then turn the waistband over, and sew it to the inside using a back stitch. Two hanging tape loops are secured in this back stitch.

10/10/2023

Having carefully shaped the kilt by sewing. It now needs a canvas, to maintain and support the structure.
If there was no canvas, the kilt would very quickly become shoddy, just through the dynamics of wearing eight yards of heavy weight (16oz) wool.
First I attach a canvas to the back, at the seat line, using a back stitch. I then pin and sew the apron canvases to the outside edge, down across and up, over the folded in section.
Then the back gets cut, and shaped with pad-stitch. The apron canvases are stitched beneath the back canvas.
Taking care at this stage, to shape and fit the canvas meticulously, means the kilt will retain it's shape for a lifetime.

09/10/2023

Eight yards of cloth, pleated to the customer's measurements is incredibly bulky. So on the inside, I cut away the bulk from the small of the back, and lift and secure the pleats, at seat level, with a cross stitch.
On the outside, I use three rows of basting, to establish, and secure the position of the pleats, for pressing later.
The correct sequence is important. Because after installing a canvas stay-strip at waist level, on the inside. The first pleat and inverted pleat are lifted and if the outside had not already been basted, it'd be impossible to achieve the bracing effect, which ultimately prevents the front apron from sticking out.
Phew? I know that was long winded.

06/10/2023

So much work already done, and only now do I get on to sewing the pleats.
The pleats that I so carefully marked out get basted along the chalk lines. I start by sewing the front apron to the first pleat. Then the first pleat to the second. At the waist point of the second pleat, I sew bar-tacks where the hole for the strap will be opened up later.
The customer's measurements and the size of the sett, determine that this kilt has twenty nine pleats.
When I've sewn each quarter of the pleats, I check that the waist and seat measurements are coming out accurately. So there are no surprises on the twenty ninth pleat.

05/10/2023

After marking out, the fringe on the front apron, and the under-apron are sewn first.
There is an incredible amount of shaping put into a kilt.
The tailoring techniques used to achieve this, include ironwork. You can see the shaping already on the front apron. It's already inclined to curve towards the body.
No sticky out aprons on a True kilt.

04/10/2023

This Ancient MacEwan tartan from Lochcarron of Scotland is on my cutting table this morning.
A True kilt has 8 yards of cloth.
Accurate calculations and precision marking, always ensures a beautiful, well fitting kilt.

21/04/2023

I think this is the sweetest wee Aboyne waistcoat I've ever made.
It looks sweet and it feels luxurious to touch.

24/03/2023

Spent a lovely two weeks with Rae, a kiltmaker in Texas. She came all the way to Rosemarkie for training to make trews, a drummer's plaid, and a piper's plaid.
She's going home with her work and manuals, so she will remember how she made them.
I'm going to miss her.

Address

Rosemarkie
IV108UF

Website

http://www.truekilts.com/

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