20/09/2012
鬼衣
因為奧運的關係，人人談論倫敦，大家爭相發掘倫敦的旅遊、飲食、歷史等資訊，非常熱鬧。在倫敦，除了Oxford Street及Regent Street眾所周知外，不得不提被喻為英式西裝的黃金大道的Savile Row，是裁縫服裝的發源地，有著超過二百年裁縫歷史。最近A&F進駐這條歷史大道，弄致滿成風雨，有說世界頂級西裝定做的最高工藝集中地，不應容納一些潮牌，亦有說潮牌可引來年青人的關注，有助活化歷史。
西裝，又名洋服，行內人稱為鬼衣，即洋鬼子穿的衣服，在1800年間西裝開始抬頭，其中被喻為西裝之父的 Beau Brummell，開始找 Savile Row周圍的裁縫為他造衣服。全盛時期，短短的Savile Row擁有超過100間裁縫店。西服定製是指按照人體身材尺寸量度製作，包括面料、款式都是由客戶親自選定後再製作，是一種高品味的享受。
西裝的傳入，初時多由出國商人或出國留學生穿着。上海的中式裁縫也開始學習製作西裝。1920年的新文化運動中，西裝衝擊了傳統的長袍馬褂，自此西裝廣泛流傳，中國的西裝業也蓬勃發展起來。民國時代，國民政府曾定長袍馬褂為國民禮服，當時的領導人包括蔣介石、林森等人也多穿着長袍馬褂或中山裝，而中華人民共和國成立後，毛澤東與鄧小平等均穿着中山裝，直到改革開放之後，中國政治人物才普遍穿着西裝。在中國五千年服裝文化歷史當中，裁剪業所擔當的角色極為重要，是見證服裝改革的發展。
Suit
Everybody talking about London, and looking for sightseeing, cuisine, history, all this because of the Olympic Games. In London, besides the famous shopping area Oxford Street and Regent Street, we must know Savile Row which termed the “Golden mile of tailoring”, where is the birth place of men’s bespoke tailoring. Recently, too much noise against A&F stationed in this historical area, somebody said the trendy brand should not be stationed at this traditional craftsmanship area, but somebody said that could be attracted more youngsters to concern about the history.
During 18th century, the gentry became concerned with neat dress, and the father of bespoke suit Mr Beau Brummell began looking tailoring service for himself at Savile Row and surrounding area. At the peak period, there were over a hundred tailoring shops at Savile Row. Made-to-measure suit is made according to the customers’ selection on their own preference fabric, style and their body measurement.
Suit introduced to China by merchants and students who study or work aboard. Chinese tailors in Shanghai also began to learn how to make a suit. In 1920, suit has made a great impact on traditional long robe style dressing, and wide spread afterward. Before establishment of the People Republic of China, National Government had given long robe style dressing as the national dress, including the leader Chiang Kai Shek, Lin Sen were wearing long robe or tunic suit frequently. After the founding of the PRC, Chairman Mao and Deng Xiao Ping were wearing tunic suit as well, until the reform, most politicians were wearing suit popularly. From the five thousand years history of Chinese fashion culture, tailoring service played the important role, it was the witness of the clothing development.
