15/09/2021
TUTT* I NOSTRI TESSUTI
Tessuti Indiani
Kimkhab
A Gold reverie of Benaras
"Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together" Mark Twain.
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While the original brocade fabric that came from China and into Ladakh was filled with Buddhist symbols throughout. On the other hand, the fabric that was adopted into the Indian subcontinent was known to be distinctly different as it had more Islamic influences in terms of the embroidery along with the motifs and patterns. More often than not, these patterns were filled with influences drawn from flora such as flowers, vines, trees, roots and so on and fauna, primarily birds like peacocks and other smaller birds, a feature that is extremely characteristic of all embroidery forms that have an Islamic heritage.
The regal look of Kimkhab brocade is classified on the basis of the threads that are used to create the fabric. The number of layers of the warp differs from style to style, going up to even seven layers in one fabric. The weft inserted to make the design is either made of gold, silver, colored silk thread or a combination of them all. When the figure-work on top is created with the help of silver threads and there is a prominent background to this which is made of gold threads, it is known as ‘Tashi Kinkhwab’. Similarly, the fabric can be classified in terms of the total layers of the threads that are used as well. When there are three layers of thread used, it is known as Tipara. When there are four layers of thread used to create the fabric, it is known as Chaupara. Finally, when there are total seven layers of thread, it is known as Satpara. The names translate into the number of the layers of threads used.
Fine.
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