29/09/2019
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Someone once said that men’s fashion is cyclical. He felt that menswear is currently experiencing a cyclical transition in terms of men’s suiting proportions. It’s the classic Thom Browne vs Tom Ford debate; two leading American menswear designers who are polar opposites in the way they think a man should look.
He wrote that for the past couple of years Thom Browne has been very influential with his extremist (and trendy) approach to enlightening men about slim, cropped, and minimalist proportions. If you have recently begun wearing your pants a little shorter than usual, chances are he had some influence, whether you were conscious of it or not. Browne also pioneered the now popular slim lapel (the 60’s “Mad Men” look) with his standard 2-2.5” notch lapels. This has been the “fashion forward” lapel for some time now, but in my opinion has recently begun its slow journey out of the forefront.
Tom Ford, by contrast, has a different approach. Known for his easier-to-wear more classic silhouettes, full cut pants and wide peak lapels, Tom is taking cues from a new decade: the 70s. The natural progression of the menswear cycle is to move from Thom’s proportions to Tom’s proportions.
He concluded that the “fashion forward” lapels are probably large (3-3.5”) and fully peaked.
He has always believed that in menswear, it is not in the fashion trend but in the style that really matters.
Therefore you should wear whatever lapel works best for you. If you’re a skinny, small-framed guy who likes a really slim contemporary cut (like Thom Browne), then slim notch lapels will probably work best. On the other hand, if you’re more average sized, with a broader chest and wider shoulders (more like Tom Ford) then large peak lapels make more sense to cover the space and draw attention upward to the face.
His big advice: don’t worry about following the trend, be more concerned with figuring out what proportions work best for you personally. In my case, I fall somewhere in between, so on any given night you can find me in lapels of any shape or size.
fashion trend update just for FYI: