Moon Chiffon & Silk Fabric

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23/04/2017

Manufacturing Process of Viscose Rayon

Viscose Rayon
It is a regenerated cellulosic fibre and cellulose is the raw material for producing this man made fibre.

The raw material is obtained from a special variety of wood called spruce.

Manufacturing Process

a. Purification of Cellulose:
The manufacture of viscose rayon starts with the purification of cellulose. Spruce trees are cut into timber. Their barks are removed and cut into pieces measuring 7/8" x 1/2" x 1/4". These pieces are treated with a solution of calcium bisulphite and cooked with steam under pressure for about 14 hours.
The cellulosic component of the wood is unaffected by this treatment, but the cementing material called lignin, which is present in the wood, is converted into its sulphonated compound which is soluble in water. This can be washed off, thereby purifying the remaining cellulose. This cellulose is treated with excess of water. After this it is treated with a bleaching agent (sod hypochlorite) and finally converted into paper boards or sheets. This is called wood pulp, which is normally purchased by the manufacturers of viscose rayon.

b. Conditioning of Wood Pulp:
The pulp sheets are cut by a guillotine to the required dimension and are kept in a special room. Air moves freely among the divisors by means of ventilatorys, the temperature is maintained at 30 deg celcius. In this way the desired moisture content can be had.

c. Steeping Process:
The conditioned wood pulp sheets are treated with caustic soda solution ( about 17.5%). It is called mercerising or steeping. The high DP cellulose (1000) is converted into soda cellulose. The sheets are allowed to soak (steep0 until they become dark brown in colour. This takes about 1-14 hours. The caustic soda solution is drained off and sheets are pressed to squeeze out excess caustic soda solution. 100 kg of sulphite pulp gives about 310 kg of soda cellulose.

4. Shredding or cutting process:
The wet, soft sheets of soda cellulose are passed through a shredding machine which cuts them into small bits. In 2-3 hours the sheets are broken into fine crumbs.

5. Ageing Process:
To obtain almost ideal solution of cellulose, the soda cellulose is stored in small galvanised drums for about 48 hours at 28 deg C. This process is called ageing process.The ageing process is essential. During This process, the DP od soda cellulose is decreased from 1000 to about 300 by oxygen present in the air, contained in the drum.

6. Churning Process or Xanthation:
After ageing, the crumbs of soda cellulose are transferred to rotating, air tight, hexagonal churners or mixers. Carbon disulphide ( 10% of the weight of the crumbs) is added to the mixer and churned together for 3 hours by rotating the mixers at a slow speed of 2 rev per minutes. Sodium cellulose xanthate is formed during this process and the colors of the product changes from white to reddish orange.

7. Mixing or dissolving Process:
The orange product i.e. sod.cell.xanthate is in the form of small balls. These fall into a mixer called dissover which is provided with a stirrer. A dilute solution of caustic soda is added, and the contents are stirred for 4-5 hours and at the same time, the dissovler is cooled. The sod.cell.xan. dissovles to give a clear brown thick liquor, similar to honey. This is called 'viscose' and it contains about 6.5% caustic soda and 7.5% cellulose.

8. Ripening Process:
This viscose solution requires to be ripened to give a solution having best spinning qualities. Ripening is carried by storing the viscose solution for 4-5 days at 10 to 18 deg. The viscosity of the solution first decreases and then rises to its original value. The ripened solution is filtered carefully and is now ready for spinning to produce viscose rayon filaments.

9. Spinning Process:

The viscose solution is forced through a spinnerette, having many fine holes ( 0.05-0.1mm) diameter. The spinnerette is submerged into a solution containing the following chemicals.
10% --> sulphuric acid, 18%- Sod sulphate, 1% - Zinc sulphate, 2% glucose, 69% water.

The spinning solution is kept at 40-45 deg celcius.

Sodium sulphate precipitates the dissoved sod. cell.xanthate. Sulphuric Acid converts xanthate into cellulose, carbon disulphide and sod. sulphate. the glucose is supposed to give softness and pliability to the filaments whereas zinc sulphate gives added strength.

The quality of viscose rayon filament formed depends upon:

1. The temperature of the spinning bath
2. The composition of the spinning bath.
3. The speed of coagulation
4. The period of immersion of the filament in the spinning bath.
5. The speed of spinning.
6. The stretch imparted to the filaments.

As a number of filaments emerge from the spinnerette, they are taken together to an eye at the surface of the spinning bath and then guided to two rollers from where they are wound on to a spindle.

23/04/2017

Properties of Viscose Rayon

Moisture Absorption
It absorbs more moisture than cotton. Moisture Content of Cotton is 6% at 70 deg F and 65% RH, and for Viscose Rayon it is 13% under the same conditions.

Tensile Strength
The Tensile Strength of the fibre is less when the fibre is wet than when dry. It is 1.5-2.4 gpd in the dry state and 0.7-1.2 gpd in the wet state. For high tenacity variety the values are 3-4.6 gpd and 1.9 to 3.0 gpd.

Elasticity
The elasticity of Viscose Rayon is less than 2-3%. This is very important in handling viscose yarns during weaving, stentering etc when sudden tensions are applied.

Elongation at Break
Ordinary Viscose rayon has 15-30% elongation at break, while high tenacity rayon has only 9-17% elongation at break.

Density
The density of Viscose rayon is 1.53 g/cc. Rayon filaments are available in three densities: 1.5, 3.0 and 4.5

Action of Heat and Light
At 300 deg F or more, VR loses its strength and begins to decompose at 350-400 deg F. Prolonged exposure to sunlight also weakens the fibre due to moisture and ultraviolet light of the sunlight.

Chemical Properties
Viscose rayon consists of cellulose of lower DP than cotton cellulose. Also amorphous region of Viscose rayon is present to a greater extent, therefore, Viscose rayon reacts faster than cotton with chemicals. Acids like H2SO4 HCL breaks the cellulose to hydrocellulose. Oxidising agents like Na(OCl)2, Bleaching powder, K2Cr2O7, KMnO4- form oxycellulose. Cold acid solutions for a short time do not attack viscose rayon.

Action of Solvents
Textile solvents can be used on Viscose rayon without any deteriorating effect. Viscose rayon dissolves in cuprammonium hydroxide solution.

Effect of Iron
Contact with iron in the form of ferrous hydroxide weakens viscose rayon yarns. Therefore staining, marking or touching of rayon to iron or iron surface should be avoided.

Action of Microorganisms
Microorganisms ( moulds, mildew, fungus, bacteria) affect the colour, strength, dyeing properties and lustre of rayon. Clean and dry viscose rayon is rarely attacked by moulds and mildew.

Longitudinal View
The longitudinal view of these fibres show many striations running parallel to the long axis of the fibre. The cross section of viscose has striated periphery, having many sharp indentations, and cross sectional contours vary from circular and oval to ribbon-like forms.

23/04/2017

Count:

Count of yarn is very important to produce specific quality yarn. It is the coarseness or fineness of yarn. In the other hand, we can say count is a number is determined the mass per length or the length per unit.

Count Measurement System:
There is two systems for the measurement of count.

1. Direct System
2. Indirect System

Direct System:
In this counting system, the yarn number or count is the weight of a unit length of yarn. Here, higher the number, finer the yarn and vice versa. Here, the weight of yarn is fixed, length is variable.

Formula:

W X l
N = …………….
w X L

Where,

N = Yarn count
L = Length of sample
l = Unit length
W = Weight of sample
w = Unit weight

Commonly used units in this system of measurement are:-

 Tex ( 1 Tex = 1g/ 1000m )
 Spyndle (1 Syndle = 1lb/14400yds)
 Denier ( 1 Denier = 1g/ 9000m )

Indirect System:
In this counting system the yarn number or count is the length of a unit weight of yarn. Here, lower the number, finer the yarn and vice versa. Here, the length of yarn is fixed, weight is variable.

Formula:

L X w
N = ………………..
l X W

Where,

N = Yarn count
L = Length of sample
l = Unit length
W = Weight of sample
w = Unit weight

Commonly used units in this system of measurement are:-


 Cotton or English Count
 Metric Count
 Worsted Count

23/04/2017

Textile Briefs International

Bangladesh government has taken a large project to upgrade production technology of jute mills under $350 million foreign loans, in view of the continued erosion of competitiveness of jute mills in the country.
China remains a world leader in textiles employing over 4.6 million people, contributing a tenth of GDP and with exports, including apparel amounting to US dollars 284 billion in 2015, according to data from China's National Bureau of Statistics.
Uzbekistan, a major cotton producing country has set a task to process all cotton produced in the country into textiles by 2020, as against 40% of the cotton that is being processed currently and as against 7% in 1991. As of date, the country exports textiles to over 50 countries and more recently has begun exports to Nigeria, Croatia, Chile and Brazil.
Turkey is planning to impose 3% anti-dumping duty on U.S. cotton imports on the pretext that imports are hurting domestic cotton production. The industry feels that this measure will drive up the costs for its own textile producers, hurting the competitiveness of their exports.
World ending stocks of cotton are forecast to decrease by 7% to 17.8 million tones at the end of 2016-17 as China continues to reduce its stocks. Ending stocks in China, dipped 13% to 11.3 million tones as the government sold over 2 million tones. From 2009-10 to 2014-15, world ending stocks increased by 140% and reached a world record of 22.2 million tonnes.
Several major textile manufacturers are to make products in the US, echoing US President Donald Trump’s pledge to push for goods labeled “Made in the USA.” Everest Textile Co., is one such company that has bought a plant in North Carolina and repurposed the production lines, is scheduled to start production soon.
The US and Japan imported garments and textile products worth US$15 billion from Vietnam in 2016, the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (Vitas) has said. This accounted for 53.5% of the garment and textile sector’s export turnover of $28.3 billion last year.
Cambodia’s total exports to the United States declined last year compared with 2015. According to figures from the Office of the US Trade Representative, total exports from Cambodia to the United States were more than $2.8 billion last year compared with more than $3 billion in 2015 – a decline of about seven percent.
The exports of apparel and textiles from the UK have increased by 7.05% to GBP 9.1 billion in 2016, compared to exports of GBP 8.5 billion in 2015. The European Union was the biggest market for UK's textiles and apparel, accounting for 74% of all UK textile and apparel exports.

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