06/01/2016
In the heyday of Ghanaian textiles, there were around 50 companies that printed the iconic wax prints in Ghana in yhat everyday colorful prints-on-prints aesthetic. The motifs and colors used in the fabric represent proverbs, history, and cultural events. Because of copycat prints from China that are smuggled in and sold at lower prices on cheaper fabric, all but a few companies have gotten priced out of business. The last time I was in Ghana, only 4 companies remained that were manufacturing cotton wax in Ghana.
This is of importance not just because of the cotton wax's cultural and aesthetic value. When the textiles are Made in Ghana, the manufacturing and supply chains pump back into the Ghanaian economy. When textiles are copied, manufactured elsewhere, and sold in the markets in Ghana, Ghanaians act merely consumers, spending money on a product that is an imitation of their own art.
At the core of AFIA is the sourcing of textiles that are printed in Ghana to support this iconic industry. Browsing through the textiles at the shops that line Makola market, checking in with shop owners I have known for years now, are the best days of the process. In an attempt to stay ahead of imitation prints, the Ghanaian printers rotated new, innovative prints into the market every few months, which was endless inspiration for me.
To hear that the few remaining are now on the brink of collapse is devastating. Economically, this is a huge blow for Ghana.
From the artistic angle, it sucks my energy to continuously see the creators get their ideas not just stolen, but capitalized on by those with more money to scale that idea, and in the end the creator just loses. Imitation without compensation is not flattering, it just sucks.
Ghana will soon not be able to point to a single textile...