01/30/2020
It is prom time once again. Time to make your appointment for alterations if you have found your dress. If you haven’t found your dress yet here are some tips to help make that shopping trip easier and the need for expensive alterations less likely.
• Wear a good bra. Never try on formal wear in a sports bra. Many dresses have built in bra cups and you won’t need to wear a bra. When you come for an alteration you will need to have the foundation garments (bra, Spanx, etc.) you plan to wear. They make a huge difference on how the garment fits.
• The dress length is the most common area that needs altered. If you plan to wear high heels take a pair of the height you plan to wear with you if you have them. You don’t want to buy a dress that is too short. Dresses are usually made to fit a 5’6” and taller person as it is easier to make them longer in the factory and have them altered to fit the shorter figure. When going for your alterations you will need to have your shoes with you.
• The most time consuming and expensive length alteration I have done was on a dress that had to be shortened about 6” and had gathered fabric roses sewn all over the skirt with beads sewn in clusters in the center. I had to remove the fabric flowers far enough up from the hemline to shorten the dress then the flowers had to be sewn back on as well as the beads. It took 40 hours to do these alterations. The dress was beautiful but it was very expensive.
The number of layers and the fullness also contribute to the length of time it takes to hem a dress. If it has eight layers of tulle each layer must be shortened separately. Many dresses have a lining, an under lining, and a top layer of fashion fabric such as chiffon or tulle. If it is tulle it could be several layers as tulle is so light weight it would look skimpy with only one layer.
• The bust and or the waist are also often areas that need altered. Garments that are too small are more difficult to alter than ones that are too large. While some dresses have extra seam allowances which can be let out not all dresses do. Bride’s maid and wedding dresses are more likely to have larger seams that can be let out than prom dresses.
If there isn’t enough fabric in the seam allowances to let the garment out there is not much I can do other than making a corset back by removing the back zipper and putting loops on both sides which a fabric lacing tie is run though like lacing up your shoes. A modesty panel can be placed under the lacing if you don’t want skin to show.
• The circumference of the bust may be correct but the bust curve could be too high or too low. I have found this problem in many wedding dresses. It is a fairly easy fix in most cases. Sometimes just putting in a bra cup works. Sometimes I do have to change the curve.
• Shortening shoulder straps or halter straps are fairly easy and inexpensive alterations. If they are beaded the beads will have to be taken off in the area where attached to the dress and possibly sewn back on by hand.
• Beads and sequins require extra time if they are in the area that needs altered. They have to be removed back far enough to get to the area that needs taken up. If letting out a seam that has beading around it that area will have to be covered with beads so if your dress comes with a little package of beads hang on to them for alterations or replacing ones that fall off. Beads do fall off easily. They can catch on things or on each other and pull loose. Sequins sewn on with the chain stitch can come off so easily you can lose a large area in seconds. If it happens try to pick up as many of them as you can and don’t pull on the loose thread as more will pull loose. I always make a final check when finishing a dress with beads to make sure there aren’t any loose ones. Not every seamstress likes to work with beads and sequins but I enjoy sewing by hand.
• Trains are popular and make your walk in glamorous but they can get in the way. They can be bustled. This is done by various methods of bringing up the bottom edge of the skirt and attaching it to a point higher on the skirt to make the hem at floor level all of the way around. The method used depends on the style of the dress. Bustling a dress makes it easier to move around and dance and it keeps it from being stepped on.
Have fun shopping and if you need alterations call or text me at 620-336-3337.
