Terrapin Wet Suits

Terrapin Wet Suits At Terrapin Wet Suits we provide custom wet suits, wet suit alterations and wet suit repairs.

Terrapin constructs truly custom fitted wetsuits either from the latest technology in Neoprene or Polartec where you choose the colors and style, or by customizing a pre-manufactured suit. You can pick the colors and style that best fit you and you can take advantage of the latest technology in Neoprene or Polartec. Call today to get your custom wet suit that will perfectly fit you! 830-226-5194

Terrapin Wetsuits moved our location in March 2025.  We are now in Kerrville, Tx.  Don't worry, our location was not aff...
08/09/2025

Terrapin Wetsuits moved our location in March 2025. We are now in Kerrville, Tx. Don't worry, our location was not affected by the July 4th flood.

05/04/2016

A well respected monthly SCUBA diving magazine published a article in March, 2016 about whether it's "Time to Replace that Old Wetsuit" It was full of information, but not all of it accurate, from my perspective.

In Part 1 of my April blog, I highlighted some of the points made in the article, with which I agree. In Part 2, I address the points with which I disagree, and why.

The article quoted one retailer as saying, "Gas blown neoprene contains nitrogen in the tiny bubbles" [implying this is better since only gas blown neoprene uses nitrogen]. and "A chemical blown wetsuit feels softer, but will not be as durable" [as gas blown].
> I discussed this with the Japanese manufacturer of the highest quality neoprene used for wetsuits, who says both gas blown and chemical blown processes use nitrogen for the bubbles, and whichever process is used has no significant effect on durability. They prefer the chemical blown method, because they can better control the size and uniformity of the tiny bubbles, so that the resulting neoprene is less permeable.
> The softness of the neoprene, along with its compressibility, stretch, and rebound, can all be controlled during manufacturing. Most off-the-rack, mass-produced wetsuits are made of soft neoprene because the more it stretches, the wider the range of shapes one suit will fit. In my opinion, it's the overstretching -- not the softness -- that primarily reduces durability. So, in buying a suit, a diver should go up a size or two to find a size that is actually a bit too loose, then go down to the next size. Buy a suit that fits your torso length, and the rest can be tailored out or in, to make sure it fits without overstretching.

The article recommended suits lined with titanium woven into the lining, stating "It reflects body heat back to the diver, instead of through the neoprene and into the water, so it does keep you warmer. And it's easier to put on. But the con is if you bend and crush it, it degrades easier. And it's more expensive."
> We all deal with hot metal items every day, so the concept of metal "reflecting heat" is certainly opposite to my experience. Metal conducts heat, it doesn't reflect it. The authors completely missed the point of why plush linings are sometimes used in wetsuits. Knit and plush linings are designed to trap water in place, reducing the flow of water between you and your suit. Ionic coatings -- titanium, silver and zircon-infused linings -- offer easier entry and reduce the buildup of skin cells and their attendant bacteria, so the wetsuit smells fresher. But physics says they won't keep you any warmer.

On wetsuit thickness: "the older you are, the thicker the suit you will need" [and] "The more body fat you have, the more insulation you have"
> At best, these are generalities, but I really believe each individual diver is different. Just because you and your dive buddy are about the same age, doesn't mean you need the same thickness wetsuit. Other significant factors include how long you stay down per dive, how many repetitive dives will you do on consecutive days, how much work will your muscles do on the dive, how fast is your metabolism, etc... And I'm very concerned whenever someone says they have enough "natural (fat) insulation" to stay warm. Blood vessels in the skin constrict in response to the nerve endings in the skin saying they're cold. All that occurs on the layer outside of the fat, so fat can't help regulate that process.

On Maintenance: "After diving, throw your suit into a bathtub with a little wetsuit shampoo or any detergent, rinse and hang it to dry in the shade before storing"
> Yes wash, rinse and hang to dry, but not "any detergent" will do. Be sure to avoid concentrated laundry detergents because it will be very hard to get the suds out, and also avoid detergents with "color boosters" or whitening agents, that may cause the suit to fade.
> Dry your wetsuit inside out first, then reverse it after the inside surface is dry. This is especially important for suits with ionic coatings because the coatings can get stuck together and tear, rather than peel apart if the suit is pressed flat when they are damp.

"Most of the physical abuse a wetsuit takes comes from divers sitting on their knees above and under water, which could compress and decompress the neoprene quicker than normal."
> The most common wetsuit physical abuse I am asked to repair is broken zippers and wetsuit tears at the base of the back zipper. A diver should hold or pull down on the base of the zipper with one hand, while pulling up the pull cord with the other hand. This allows the zipper teeth to stay in straighter alignment and reduces the chance of the slider getting snagged, or pulling off track.

"The common rating for wetsuits is 200 dives. "Most people don't dive that much," [...]"The max for an average diver is less than 50 dives a year, so a well-made wetsuit could indeed last you a lifetime."
> Many of my clients are avid divers and are lucky enough to make 20-30 dives per year. That means your suit should last 7 - 10 years. But few among us are the same shape we were 10 years ago. If the neoprene in your old wetsuit is still in good condition, but it doesn't fit you, it can be altered by Terrapin Wetsuits. If it still fits but has compressed, it may be converted into a layering piece, such as a vest or sleeveless shorty to wear under another suit or a short-sleeved shorty for warm water.

I commend Undercurrent's authors for raising awareness of wetsuit issues, even if I don't agree with all their opinions. The important thing is that you think about your suit's condition more than a few days before your next dive trip, or get it to us for fixing as soon as you get back from your last dive.

Have fun diving! , Chris Summers

04/08/2016

A well respected monthly SCUBA diving magazine published a article in March, 2016 about whether it's "Time to Replace that Old Wetsuit" (1). It was full of information, but not all of it accurate, from my perspective.

In Part 1 of my April blog, I've highlighted some of the points made in the article, with which I agree. In Part 2, I'll address the points that need correcting. But for now I think these are worth repeating or explaining.

> "Water conducts away heat about 25 times faster than air. Since we rarely dive in water at the same temperature as our skin,[...] eventually you will get cold."

> "A lot of heat loss occurs while diving bareheaded, although some argue about this. Hoods certainly add to your insulation."

> "A dive suit will protect you from abrasions, scratches, and stingy things."

> " Fit and thickness are the most important factors for staying warm. ...The suit should fit snugly at the wrists and ankles, with no gaps for water to seep in, and the neckband should be snug, but not tight enough to keep you from breathing normally. And, move your arms and legs up and down to make sure there are no gaps in the underarm or crotch area."
(I would add this as well: Most off-the-rack, mass-produced wetsuits are made of soft neoprene because the more it stretches, the wider the range of people a suit will fit. However, it's the overstretching that primarily reduces durability. So, in buying a suit, a diver should go up a size or two to find a size that is actually a bit too loose, then go down to the next size. Buy a suit that fits your torso length, and the rest can be tailored out or in, to make sure it fits without overstretching.)

> On construction: "At the [top] end of construction quality is the blind stitch -- the material is first glued together and then stitched on one side. However, the stitch doesn't pierce the material, which would give an entry point for water. The blind stitch is then done on the reverse side and interlocks with the first stitch. That gives the strongest seam. It's found on the more expensive wetsuits".
(It's also the method Terrapin Wetsuits uses for 3mm and thicker wetsuits. The glue provides the majority of strength in this seam. For thinner material, there is less surface area for the glue to hold the two sides together, so a flatseam or overlock stitch is used with the glue. Most "off the rack" suits that use a flatseam or overlock stitch don't bother with the glue step, but I like to be thorough.)

> "Suits dried in the sun can lose their insulation because the nitrogen in each bubble of neoprene expands and leaks out, effectively making the neoprene thinner."
(I think this is primarily due to UV rays causing the neoprene rubber to harden. Then bubble walls are more likely to crack when the suit is stretched. This allows the nitrogen to escape and the bubbles to stay collapsed once they are compressed by diving. It will also create permeable pathways for the water to leak through the neoprene as well.)

(1) www.Undercurrent.org Vol.31, No.3

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2129 Vista Ridge Drive
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