Sew Vintage Couture

08/16/2025

From the Deck to the Sidewalk – The Timeless Pea Coat
Few garments have the staying power of a classic pea coat. Born in the early 1700s from Dutch naval tradition (“pij” for the heavy wool it was made from), the pea coat became a British Royal Navy staple, then a U.S. Navy standard by the late 1800s. The double-breasted front, wide lapels, and thick navy wool were built for life on windy decks — but they found a permanent place in civilian wardrobes after WWII when surplus coats flooded the market.

For me, the pea coat isn’t just history — it’s personal. My husband served in the Coast Guard and still loves wearing them. I have one myself — all wool, warm, and timeless. A few years before COVID, we found a couple more at a vintage military surplus store in Council Bluffs, Iowa, run by a wonderful mother and son. I’m due to check if they’re still open.

This vintage pattern captures that same double-breasted naval style, tailored for everyday wear in the 1970s. Make it in deep navy wool with anchor buttons for an authentic military look, or try a plaid skirt pairing for a chic city vibe. Either way, it’s proof you can sew history right into your wardrobe.

Question for you: If you were making this coat today, would you keep it traditional or give it a modern twist?

08/16/2025

The Overlooked Side of Pattern History

Here’s something most pattern lovers never talk about: the first commercially printed sewing patterns weren’t for women — they were for men.

In the mid-1800s, tailoring ruled the sewing world. Pattern companies produced coats, trousers, waistcoats and uniforms for men long before they catered to women’s dresses. Men’s garments followed standardized cuts, which made them ideal for reusable patterns. Women’s fashion at the time changed rapidly, often requiring custom draping, so mass-market patterns for women didn’t take off until later.

By the early 20th century, women’s and children’s fashions dominated the market. Men’s patterns all but disappeared except for very limited supplies of men's workwear and the occasional coat, if at all.

By the 1950s, things started to shift. Catalogs began offering more casual shirts, jackets, trousers for men— and yes, undergarments, including sleepwear— for men. The postwar boom, growing leisure culture and a “sew for the whole family” mindset made patterns like this one possible.

These patterns are perfect examples. Pure mid-century style: clean lines, practical design and that wonderful illustrated artwork you just don’t see anymore. For collectors, men’s patterns are still an underappreciated niche — but they tell a story that’s as old as sewing patterns themselves.

Collector’s note: Men’s patterns may never outnumber women’s in your stash, but when you find them, they’re worth holding onto.

Question for you: Do you sew men’s vintage patterns to wear, or do you collect them for the artwork and history?

08/16/2025

McCall’s 2378 – From Civil War Trains to 70s Festivals
Once upon a time, a carpet bag wasn’t just a style—it was the travel essential. In the 1800s, travelers stitched these sturdy carryalls from leftover carpet or tapestry, creating luggage that was lighter and easier to carry than heavy trunks. They were practical, affordable and tough enough to survive dusty roads and crowded train cars.

Fast forward to the 1960s and 70s, what I call 'carpet bags' made a bohemian comeback.

Hippies, folk musicians and festival-goers embraced their handmade, eclectic look. Tapestry florals, patchwork and bold appliqués turned these bags into fashion statements.

They carried more than just belongings—they carried a vibe.

McCall’s 2378 captures that spirit perfectly. With its roomy design and optional alphabet appliqué, it’s the kind of project that could take you from a vintage fabric stash to a one-of-a-kind statement piece. Whether you dream of the open road or just want a bag that tells a story, this pattern is a nod to both the travelers of the 1800s and the free spirits of the 70s.

If you made this bag today, would you go full tapestry, patchwork, denim… or something unexpected?

08/16/2025

Set of Dolls in Two Sizes with Blue Transfer
Era: Likely 1970s–1980s

Features: Rag-style dolls in two skin tones, sold as a matching set

This reflects a period when commercial doll patterns were starting to expand representation, not here to say if they got it right or wrong, though in a simplified, folk-art style.

Great discussion starter about how homemade toys let you customize clothing, skin tone and personality.

Rag doll patterns from this era have renewed interest with the revival of handmade toys and slow craft movements.

08/16/2025

One of the oldest patterns I have. Yes — this Butterick Design 3727 is a gem.

It’s got so much going for it:

Era Appeal: Likely 1920s–1930s, judging by the illustration style and pricing (30¢).

Versatility: Multiple bonnet and hat styles for children, misses, and ladies.

Detailing: Embroidery option for View A-1, plus ribbon and fabric contrast possibilities.

Early Butterick patterns with the word “Deltor” (their illustrated instruction sheet) are especially collectible because they marked a key innovation in pattern making.

Butterick 3727 — Bonnet Days of the 1920s

Back when hats were an essential part of daily dress, a bonnet wasn’t just for the garden — it was for Sunday strolls, summer outings and keeping the sun off delicate complexions.

This 1920s Butterick “Deltor” pattern offered multiple styles, from sweetly tied brims for children to wide-brimmed hats for fashionable ladies.

Original price? Just 30¢ — and it came with Butterick’s groundbreaking illustrated instruction sheet. Today, it’s a slice of fashion history that’s hard to find in such complete condition.

08/16/2025

“Sewing the Glamour Back Into Everyday Life”

✨ From Powder Puff to Petticoat: When Everyday Lingerie Was a Little Bit Luxurious ✨

Before fast fashion and mass-produced undergarments, women often sewed their own lingerie — slips, camisoles and half-slips like these — not only for fit, but for beauty. These patterns from the 1940s and 50s (Simplicity, Advance and Du Barry) show that even what you wore underneath was meant to make you feel beautiful.

Details you won’t often find, if at all, in today’s big-box stores:

Bias-cut panels for a perfect drape
Lace edging and hand-sewn trims
Figure-flattering princess seams

Designs that worked with the era’s dresses and skirts.

Even then, lingerie patterns were treated as keepsakes and carefully stored away.

Now that Joann’s has closed and the major pattern companies (the Big Four) are gone or re-organizing-we don't know the future of sewing patterns. And originals like these are becoming rarer — and for collectors and sewists alike, that makes them treasures.

Which one would you sew — the lilac full slip, the pink lace-trimmed, or the white floral-accented version? And would you wear it as lingerie… or a summer dress? Ideas. Ideas.

Keep an eye out — once they’re gone, they’re gone.

01/13/2025

http://www.joannasyrokomla.com/press.html

When one wintry day, Adam Quang of Styl Lounge interviewed me about Murdoch at the Ian Drummond Collection. March 2024

01/06/2025

This exquisite piece showcases masterful hand-sewing, crafted from silk dupioni. It was a generous gift from a friend, originally belonging to and partially sewn by her mother. Alongside this beautiful item, I was also fortunate to receive a collection of vintage silks.

11/09/2024

I am so deeply touched by your generous and thoughtful gift of the beautiful Bernina Favorit, now affectionately named Betty. This timeless machine, with its elegant design and smooth operation, is truly a treasure, and I will take great care to preserve its beauty and functionality for years to come.

Betty now joins my beloved vintage Singer sewing machines, Hazel and Mabel. Hazel, my dependable green Singer, brings a classic charm and flawless stitching to every project. Mabel, the compact and portable Singer Featherweight, makes even the most intricate sewing feel like a breeze.

Thank you for adding such a precious and inspiring piece to my cherished collection. I am incredibly grateful and excited to create many wonderful things with Betty by my side.

With appreciation and love,

10/26/2024

I'm thrilled to share, I’m taking Sew Vintage Couture into a new direction! I’m transitioning into a cultural nonprofit, dedicated to celebrating the beauty and history of vintage fashion, sustainable sewing and traditional craftsmanship. This change will allow me to focus more on education, community and preserving the timeless art of fashion.

Thank you all for being part of this journey. Your support means the world to me and I can't wait to see where this new chapter takes us!

Stay tuned for more updates, events, and ways to get involved! 💖

Send a message to learn more

10/26/2024

Hubert de Givenchy (1927 - 2018) was a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded the luxury fashion house Givenchy, pronounced, zhee-VON-shee…fun to say.
Zhee-VON-she, is celebrated for his elegant designs and for dressing iconic women, such as Audrey Hepburn, Jacqueline Kennedy and Grace Kelly.

Born: February 21, 1927, in Beauvais, France, into an aristocratic family, Givenchy was inspired to pursue fashion after seeing an exhibition by the Parisian fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, who later became his mentor.

He studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, a well-regarded institution for arts education and later began working with notable designers like Jacques Fath, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Schiaparelli, gaining experience in haute couture.
In 1952, at the age of 25, Givenchy founded his own fashion house in Paris.

First Collection: His debut collection included the “Bettina Blouse”, a light and airy white shirt named after the model Bettina Graziani. This design became an instant sensation, showcasing his talent for creating elegant yet practical women’s fashion. The collection, with its simple elegance and light materials, put Givenchy on the map.

Givenchy's most famous early design is the "Little Black Dress" worn by Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany's. The dress became a symbol of elegance and cemented his reputation in fashion.

I should note, ironically, the ‘little black dress’ that made Givenchy famous, was actually long. Not short. What Givenchy did was redefined what a black dress could be: simple, elegant and timeless, regardless of length.

10/26/2024

This book is a well-regarded resource in the field of vintage clothing construction, particularly popular in the mid-20th century and had been used as a teaching manual in home economics and fashion design courses in its day.

Overview of the Book:

Author: Edna Bryte Bishop was an influential figure in home sewing education. Bishop developed and popularized her method for constructing garments efficiently and professionally.

Content: The book covers a wide range of garment construction techniques, focusing on precision and professional standards. It emphasizes:

Proper use of patterns
Cutting techniques
Fabric handling
Tailoring
Assembly and fitting

Cherished for its step-by-step instructions, allowing beginners to follow along easily while providing advanced tips for more experienced sewists.

Key Techniques Covered:
Pattern Layout and Cutting: Instructions on how to lay out patterns for efficient fabric use, cutting tips, and marking methods for accuracy.
Dart Construction: Techniques for sewing precise darts, creating a good fit in garments.
Seam Finishes: Proper seam finishes for durability and appearance, including French seams and flat-felled seams.
Tailoring: Techniques for more fitted and tailored garments, including collars, cuffs, and buttonholes.
Zipper Installation: Detailed instructions on inserting different types of zippers professionally.
Fit and Alterations: Guidance on adjusting patterns and garments for a better fit.

Happy hunting!