09/18/2026
Y is for yardage: lengths of raw materials that haven't been put to use yet.
Yardage is so named for the common (American) unit of measurement for fabric: a yard, which measures 3 feet or 36 inches. Yardage also applies to other components that can be measured this way, like the ribbon we use for lacing. Leather, on the other hand, is measured by the square foot, hide, or half-hide.
The style and size of a garment affect the required yardage, of course, but even more so does the pattern of the fabric. Solid patterns with no discernible texture are the most efficient, especially if they don't have a "right" and a "wrong" side. Some satins are "double faced" with two right sides, as is our go-to poplin. Fabrics with a "pile," like corduroy or velvet (not that they're often used for corsetry!), only have one right side. Fabrics with texture may also have a "nap" that affects their feel and color when viewed from different angles. It's imperative to cut these fabrics with all the garment pieces laying the same direction from neck to hem. Finally, fabrics that have patterns like plaids and florals require extra material and care to match along each seam to create a feeling of continuity in the motif.
Understandably, the amount of materials used has a considerable impact on the cost of a garment — but the biggest cost comes from the labor involved to work with those materials! Automation in fashion is extremely limited and each garment you wear has been touched by human hands over and over again before it gets to you, especially in a small studio like ours where each piece is cut by hand (not laser).
Some materials, though, are priceless. Over the years, we've worked with many client-owned textiles, including bits of delicate antique yardage and trim, to create one-of-a-kind pieces. The results have been garments made of vintage piano shawls, corsets trimmed with Parisian heirloom lace, and wedding ensembles repurposing a parent's beloved dress or veil lace. If you have some special yardage or trim in your stash and would like to work with us to create something unique, please give us a call, text, or email with some of the details of your proposed project, and we'll be happy to discuss design possibilities with you!
Photos: Perry Gallagher Photography, Meagan Chisum, Joel Aron Photography