06/05/2026
BUFFALO BILLFOLD DIARIES-ROADNOTES
The Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup is an event of uncommon merit. It boasts the largest American bison roundup in the world. A friend of mine, Chad Kremer, happens to be the herd manager of this remarkable collection of animals. Each fall, most of the herd is gathered, branded, inoculated, and culled. It is not merely entertainment for the public; it is a necessary part of managing and preserving one of America's great treasures.
Chad has taken on this responsibility with the seriousness it deserves. He possesses all the necessary credentials, including the curious and sometimes challenging task of managing the public. Along with the fine folks at Custer State Park, he helps oversee an undertaking that draws thousands upon thousands of visitors from around the globe, all eager to witness a free-ranging herd of bison being brought into the corrals each year.
There was a time, from the late 1870s into the early 1900s, when the American bison stood perilously close to extinction. Through conservation efforts and game laws, the species was pulled back from the brink. In the years that followed, it was the American rancher who dramatically expanded the North American herd by recognizing both its value and its potential. The public proved eager to embrace this indigenous animal as a traditional and healthy food source. Later, the movie Dances With Wolves helped propel that interest into the stratosphere.
It is 5:30 in the morning when we begin winding our way down narrow Lame Johnny Road. The road is closed to the public, but it serves as our only route to the vendor area reserved for us near the Custer Park corrals. A state park attendant waves us through after carefully measuring the clearance of our RV.
"The road doesn't get much traffic," he says. "If you think you're lost, go another two miles. You'll be at the back entrance to the buffalo corrals."
The sun is just beginning to rise as we roll along what seems less like a road and more like a grassy suggestion of one. It feels as though we are freelancing our way across the prairie, towing a trailer behind us and trusting the wisdom of strangers. After several miles, my wife suggests we may indeed be lost. I remember the attendant's advice: go another two miles. So we do.
Within a mile or so, we spot the peak of a large tent on the horizon. It rises from the prairie like a sail at sea, marking the event grounds and southern corrals of Custer State Park.
As we approach civilization, thirty or forty horsemen have already saddled up and are heading toward the distant hills. Their task is the final gathering of bison that have been driven from many miles away. They are seasoned riders who carry the Western mystique as naturally as they carry a saddle. Dust trails behind them as they disappear over a ridgeline. Real horses, real riders, real buffalo—all engaged in honest work. It doesn't get much more Western than that.
Our role in this enterprise is considerably less glamorous. We are artisans and purveyors of bison leather goods. The roundup is accompanied by an art festival, and while the park staff rounds up buffalo, we hope to round up a few tourists. Few places in the Upper Midwest attract such an international crowd. Over the years we have met visitors from nearly every corner of Europe. They arrive enchanted by the Western mythology they grew up reading about and watching on movie screens.
People begin arriving before sunrise carrying blankets and folding chairs. They climb the surrounding hillsides to secure a good vantage point. An hour or two later, the bison finally appear, cresting a distant ridge before pouring into the valley toward the corrals. Sometimes they are directed toward the spectators, who stand safely behind sturdy buffalo fencing. When the herd is large enough, the ground trembles beneath them. It is a sensation that few people in the modern world have ever experienced—a reminder that the earth itself occasionally notices what is happening upon it.
The work in the corrals lasts throughout the day. Buffalo are tagged, inoculated, and sorted. Calves receive their brands, and market animals are selected. The smell of singed hair occasionally drifts through the air as branding irons do their work. City folks receive a brief but memorable lesson on where food comes from and how ranching actually works.
The following day, the art festival is in full swing. Artists and artisans from as far away as Tennessee have come to display the fruits of their labor. An early autumn prairie wind arrives uninvited and immediately begins expressing its opinions.
The exhibitors have carefully arranged their displays beneath neat rows of ten-by-ten tents. By ten o'clock in the morning, nearly forty tents—about thirty percent of the festival—have been reduced to crumpled heaps of aluminum poles and fabric. We sympathize with our friends while secretly congratulating ourselves on years of experience. Surely we have learned a thing or two about prairie weather.
The prairie, however, has little respect for experience.
Without warning, the wind redoubles its efforts and joins us directly in the festivities. Display tables overturn. Merchandise scatters. Products that took hours to create suddenly develop ambitions of their own and go tumbling across the grasslands. We scramble after them like desperate sheepdogs. In a matter of minutes, we have ceased being spectators and become participants.
We carry a substantial inventory with us, and there is something profoundly humbling about watching your handiwork cartwheel across South Dakota while you chase after it in a cloud of dust. It causes a person to reconsider the romance of life on the road.
Even my eternal optimism is tested. We cling to tent legs that seem determined to become aircraft. Thoughts of the Hindenburg come to mind as we wrestle with canvas and aluminum. Fortunately, our tie-downs hold. Two thousand dollars' worth of tents are spared the indignity of taking flight and returning without proper landing instructions.
By noon, we want nothing more than to pack up and head home.
We have enjoyed a wonderful summer of festivals, but the comforts of predictable marketing—whether online or on Main Street—suddenly seem very attractive. The season has been long, and we are tired.
By late morning, our belongings have been hastily stowed in the trailer. Half the exhibitors have already surrendered to the wind and departed. I conceal my discouragement and work diligently toward our own escape.
Just as we are shutting the trailer doors, a past customer comes running up. She wants to purchase a purse she had admired the previous day. By sheer luck, it sits near the front of a storage container. Within moments, a sale is completed.
As I begin closing the doors again, another customer appears looking for a different purse.
Another sale.
Soon we have dragged a table and chair back out of the trailer and resumed business while the wind continues trying to relocate us to Nebraska. We stand there, half merchant and half weather victim, marveling at the absurdity of it all. The prairie is doing its best to shut us down, and yet customers keep arriving.
Our friends from Custer State Park stop by to offer assistance and encouragement. We thank them and assure them we're doing fine, which is mostly true.
As the afternoon wears on, the wind finally tires of its mischief. The skies clear. The evening settles into calm. A beautiful prairie sunset closes the day as if none of the turmoil had ever happened.
We quietly finish packing after the crowds have gone and return to our campsite. The following morning, long before sunrise, we point ourselves toward home.
Once again, our time in the great state of South Dakota has been rewarding. Like most worthwhile adventures, it left us with a few stories, a few lessons, and a renewed appreciation for our own beds. It was a fitting conclusion to another summer festival season.
Road Notes — September 2013